Coconut Macaroons

These are a very English kind of macaroon, the sort you always used to see displayed in bakers’ shops alongside the madelines (those sponge castles dipped in luminous strawberry jam and dredged in throat-catching dessiccated coconut, and so very different from those that inflamed the memory of Marcel Proust). The difference with coconut macaroons is that you need neither to be ironic nor self-consciously retro-cool to enjoy them.One bit of retail bossiness here: buy shredded, not desiccated, coconut, otherwise the sugary, fragrant dampness – which is, after all, the whole point – will be lost.

2 large egg whites

quarter teaspoon cream of tartar

100g caster sugar

30g ground almonds

pinch of salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract (or coconut essence, should such be available)

250g shredded coconut
1 baking sheet, lined

Preheat the oven to 170?C/gas mark 3. Beat the egg whites until frothy – no more – then add the cream of tartar and carry on beating, until soft peaks are formed. Add the sugar a teaspoon at a time and whisk until the peaks can hold their shape and are shiny. Fold in the almonds, salt, vanilla and coconut. The mixture will be sticky but should, all the same, hold its shape when clumped together. Form into clementine-sized domes, 6-7cm in diameter. Don't make them too flat; they look best if you keep them nicely rounded, but this is really just a matter of personal taste, so follow your own. Cook for 20 minutes or until they're just beginning to turn golden in parts. Makes 8 large macaroons.